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- <text id=93TT0181>
- <link 93TO0122>
- <title>
- Aug. 09, 1993: Forgotten, But Not Gone
- </title>
- <history>
- TIME--The Weekly Newsmagazine--1993
- Aug. 09, 1993 Lost Secrets Of The Maya
- </history>
- <article>
- <source>Time Magazine</source>
- <hdr>
- COVER, Page 48
- Forgotten, But Not Gone
- </hdr>
- <body>
- <p>By GUY GARCIA PALENQUE--With reporting by Laura Lopez/San Cristobal de las Casas
- </p>
- <p> A tour guide at the legendary ruins of Palenque in Chiapas,
- Mexico, likes to tell the story. A tourist, after staring in
- awe at the towering pyramids, turned to the guide and said,
- "The buildings are beautiful, but where did all the people go?"
- "Of course, she was talking to a Maya," the guide says, shaking
- his head at the irony. "We're still here. We never left."
- </p>
- <p> The exchange illustrates a living paradox at the heart of the
- Maya puzzle: even as scientists continue to investigate the
- mysterious eclipse of the classic Maya empire, the Maya themselves
- are all around them. An estimated 1.2 million Maya still live
- in the southern Mexican state of Chiapas, and nearly 5 million
- more are spread throughout the Yucatan Peninsula and the cities
- and rural farm communities of Belize, Guatemala, Honduras and
- El Salvador. Ethnically, they are derived from the same people
- who created the most exalted culture in Mesoamerica. Yet the
- thousands of visitors who come each year to admire the imposing
- temples of Palenque might be shocked to know the ignominious
- fate of the Maya's modern-day descendants.
- </p>
- <p> Centuries of persecution and cultural isolation have turned
- the Maya into impoverished outcasts in their own land. At best,
- they are often reduced to tourist attractions; for a little
- money, Mexico's Lacandon Indians, for instance, will display
- their traditional white cotton shikur and long black hair. But
- condescension is the mildest of the abuses suffered by today's
- Maya. In a 1992 report on the indigenous peoples of the Americas,
- Amnesty International cited dozens of human-rights violations
- carried out by Mexican authorities against the Maya people of
- Chiapas: they include an incident in 1990 when 11 Maya were
- tortured after being arrested during a land dispute, and another
- one two years ago when 100 Maya were beaten and imprisoned for
- 30 hours without food or medical attention. In Guatemala's 30-year-old
- civil war, it has been the Maya who have been the primary victims
- of the military's antiguerrilla campaigns in the highlands,
- which have left 140,000 Guatemalans dead or missing. In some
- cases, government troops have burned entire Maya villages.
- </p>
- <p> The systematic subjugation of the Maya dates back to the Spanish
- Conquest of the early 16th century, when Catholic missionaries
- outlawed the Maya religion and burned all but four of their
- sacred bark-paper books. Indians who were not killed in battle
- or felled by European diseases were forced to work on colonial
- plantations, often as slaves. Bands of Maya rebels, known to
- be ferocious fighters, resisted pacification for almost 400
- years, first under the Spanish occupation and then under the
- Mexican army after Mexico became independent.
- </p>
- <p> Despite this history of defiance--or maybe, in some cases,
- because of it--the Maya continued to be targets of abuse even
- after being incorporated into the family of Central American
- nations. As recently as 20 years ago, Maya peasants carrying
- chickens or peanuts to the town market in San Cristobal de las
- Casas were in danger of having their wares snatched away by
- non-Indian women, or "Black Widows." And though the town's economy
- depended on trade with the Indians, Maya found walking the streets
- at night would be thrown into jail and fined.
- </p>
- <p> Today, despite government decrees that guarantee equal rights
- for Indians and the new presidency in Guatemala of human-rights
- champion Ramiro de Leon Carpio, indigenous peoples like the
- Maya remain at the bottom rung of the political and economic
- ladder. In Chiapas, where the natives speak nine different languages,
- literacy rates are about 50%, compared with 88% for Mexico as
- a whole. Infant mortality among the Maya is 500 per 1,000 live
- births, 10 times as high as the national average. And 70% of
- the Indians in the countryside lack access to potable water.
- </p>
- <p> In these sorry conditions, many Maya have seized on their old
- ways to make sense of their modern lives. In the remote highlands
- of Guatemala and Mexico, where the rugged terrain has held the
- outside world at bay, contemporary Maya still practice many
- of the same rituals that were performed by their ancestors 4,000
- years ago. Maya weavers embroider their wares with diamond motifs
- that are virtually identical to the cosmological patterns depicted
- on the lintels of ancient temples at Yaxchilan and other Maya
- sites. By marking their clothing with the symbols of their ancestors,
- the Maya artisans build a material link to pre-Columbian gods--and the indelible spirit of their cultural past. "Depictions
- of everyday life do not occur in the weaving," notes Walter
- F. Morris Jr., a Seattle-based anthropologist and author of
- Living Maya. "It's always something supernatural, something
- dreamt, something you can only see in dreams."
- </p>
-
- </body>
- </article>
- </text>
-
-